Portrait Photography Kit
how can i get better exposure in studio portrait photography?
I am using a Nikon d5000 slr with a interfit ex150 mark 2 lighting kit. The thing that is confusing me is the aperture. My cameras sync speed is 1/200th of a second. I have read many times that the best aperture for portrait photography is f2.8-f.8, the only thing is, if i use these values, my photo becomes a bit washed out even though my shutter speed is set to 1/200th. My iso is set to 100 and my lights arent even set to full power! What would be your recommendations for portrait photography in a home studio? Also just so you know, I am using the kit lens which is 18-55 VR. Is this ok for portrait work? Thanks and I much appreciate it!
Thanks for the answers guys, also my shots are quite grainy or not sharp at times, is this also to do with the lens? What settings would you use? Im thinking along lines of metering also. Thanks again! i like the thought of that 50mm f1.8!! do they give stronger colour (clarity) etc?
Forget the answers telling you to get a faster lens. If you think your photos are a "bit washed out" now, just wait until you try a lens with an even larger aperture. Fotoace has given you the real answer. It is not rocket science. You simply have to match your flash power to your aperture.
First of all, your camera's rated flash sync speed is meaningless when using studio strobes. That has nothing to do with it. The sync speed only relates to the on camera and shoe mount flash units. Your shutter speed really has no reason to ever be faster than about 1/60 when using studio strobes.
What you need is a hand held light meter that reads flash output. This would tell you EXACTLY where to set your aperture according to strobe output. But barring that, using digital, there is no reason for you to not get perfect exposure. Simply set an aperture into your camera, such as 5.6. (Be sure if zooming your lens that the aperture is not closing down on you. If it is, then set an aperture that will NOT vary. So if your lens closes down to say 6.5 at the longest focal length, then set that value into your camera. This is one instance where a constant aperture prime or zoom lens would be of benefit). Then just take a test shot with your strobes at about 1/2 power. Look at your histogram on your camera monitor. If you are overexposing, simply lower your strobe power. MAKE NO OTHER CHANGES EXCEPT TO LOWER STROBE POWER. Take another test shot. Keep adjusting your strobe power until your histogram reads as it should, meaning primarily to not have any peaks crashing into the right side of the histogram.
If for some reason you are completely unable to set your strobe power low enough, then you have too much power. It IS possible to have lights with too much power, especially in small confines. If that is the case, (which I frankly doubt), you are going to have to move the lights as far away from your subject as possible and use diffusion methods such as a shoot through umbrella. You can position a shoot through umbrella so the strobe reflects off it instead of shooting through it. This will allow lots of strobe power to be "wasted" but you have to be mindful that light will then be bouncing around the room and can possibly give a color cast to your photo, depending on wall color and how small the room is.
But bottom line, I think all you need to do is set your parameters into your camera, leave them alone, then simply adjust your strobe power to match your camera. Base you strobe power adjustment on your camera histogram read out.
steve
Inside a Pro's Photography Kit - Jasin Boland